Important - Please Read

Your new e-cruiser is a very powerful e-bike; significantly more powerful than most e-bikes on the market. To those unfamiliar with its controls, its power output is potentially dangerous. Regardless of your bicycling or motorcycling experience, an electric bicycle will surprise most operators the first time, especially when in the unlimited power mode.

Please read all information in this owner's manual section for your own safety, as well as ensuring maximum enjoyment and performance of your Fat Woody e-cruiser.

Your e-cruiser is designed for on-road / light off-road use only. Extreme off-road use, jumping, racing, or prolonged exposure to the elements can damage the bike, put the operator at serious risk for injury or death-- and may void your warranty.

Before you begin:

Before you ride your Fat Woody e-cruiser under electric power for the first time, it is recommended that you fully charge the battery. Please visit Section 5 - Charging Your Battery to learn more about how to do this properly.

Your Warranty at a Glance:

All the parts on your Fat Woody e-cruiser carry a one (1) year warranty with the exception of tires, inner tubes, and brake pads. These parts are considered routine maintenance items and expected to need replacement with normal use.


Builder's Notes:
Builder's notes are intended to provide additional information relating to general e-biking, e-bike features, and to provide insight into some of the unique design of your Fat Woody cruiser. Please look for these comments throughout the owner's manual section.
I'm here to help you in any way I can. Please don't hesitate to contact me personally if you can't find what you're looking for. I take great pride in being responsive to my customer's needs, as well as their local service shop/technician.
-  Ken McNeill, Fat Woody, LLC  -  612-405-0430  -or-

Operating your Fat Woody Kickstand

Never sit on the bike with your kickstand down!

Your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been fitted with a center support dual-leg kickstand that uniquely folds up to one side. Since electric bicycles weigh considerably more than a traditional bike, and  much of that weight has a high center of gravity, a side support kickstand doesn't provide a stable enough platform. The dual leg design provides a more stable platform by centering the bike's weight upright vs. leaning the bike to one side where it can easily fall over.

Builder's Note: Motorcycles carry their weight low (low center of gravity) with a massive engine. If the weight is carried high, most bike will fall over. Example: Putting additional cargo on a bicycle affects its balance. If you have a bag of groceries on a front or rear rack of a bicycle, and then lean it on its kickstand, it will fall over. Electric bikes have that same problem once you start strapping massive batteries to them (for increased range).

While its telescopic leg design allows you to adjust its height, the feet are lightweight plastic and are not designed to support the weight of the bike and its rider.

Never sit on the bike with the kickstand down or you will break it! While it can be replaced, the lower unit would need to be disassembled to get to its attachment bolt.

Operating the Kickstand

To operate the kickstand, stand on the left side of the bike. Put your left hand on the left handlebar grip and your right hand on the front horn of the seat/saddle. Using your right foot, push down on the kickstand until it starts to contact the ground. Continue to hold the kickstand down and with your right hand on the saddle horn, lift up and back to set the bike on top of the stand.

To retract the kickstand, stand on the left side of the bike holding the handlebars. With your right foot in front of the kickstand leg, gently push/roll the bike forward and it will retract back in place.

Important Note: Center mount kickstands work best on a flat level surface. They don't work as well on grades or inclines. Don't leave your Fat Woody in an unstable position where it can easily fall over and damage the bike.

Getting Familiar with your Fat Woody

Keyed Power Switch

Keyed Power Switch

Bluetooth Sound System Controls

Bluetooth Sound System Controls

Using the Smart Phone Cradle

Warning: Never just place your smart phone in the cradle unless you have secured it properly with velcro. It will bounce out and could be damaged.

Velcro your smart phone case.

Velcro your smart phone case.

The smart phone cradle is a convenient velcro-covered area on the fat woody console where a smart phone may be affixed. The velcro on the console is an adhesive carpet-like loop material. Included with your cruiser is some adhesive-backed hook material that you can stick to the back of a smart phone case.




Pick yourself up an inexpensive plastic smart phone case that fits your phone. Put the velcro loop material on the back and dedicate that case to your Fat Woody. You can easily switch from your nice case to your Fat Woody case when you decide to go for a ride.

Stick that to the console and your phone is not going anywhere.




⚠️  Note: When your smart phone is exposed to direct sunlight, it can heat up and shut down. I've noticed it will do this when I park the bike, and not so much when I'm riding it. I suspect the air flow keeps it cool. On hotter days, I just put it in my pocket or down in the cubby.

Really Important Stuff!

Safety First

These safety precautions are provided for your personal safety and the safety of those around you. Please review this section carefully and follow its guidance to prevent injury to you and damage to your equipment. If you let someone ride your Fat Woody e-cruiser, give them operation instruction and a thorough safety overview. Always put the e-bike on the lowest power setting until riders become familiar with the bike's controls and braking system.

Electric bikes can be surprisingly powerful:  Be careful!

With an electric motor and the right gearing, it's not hard to get a bicycle to go really fast. But the reality is, most bicycles are only designed to go as fast as a person could pedal it on level ground (about 20mph for most people). The engineers who designed it didn't anticipate some techno-geek bolting an electric motor to it and taking it down the road at 50mph.

Electric bikes can be surprisingly fast:  Brake early!

Stopping a heavier bike at fast speeds takes distance. Don't exceed your bike's capabilities!

Stopping a heavier bike at fast speeds takes distance. Don't exceed your bike's capabilities!

First and foremost, brakes become real important at higher speeds (above +15mph). The heavier the bike and operator, the longer it takes to slow the bike down or bring it to a stop. The Fat Woody is a heavy single-speed bicycle designed for low speed cruising (speeds under <20mph).

While your Fat Woody has ample power to attain speeds of 30mph, it's power is intended for torque... not speed. My intention was to build a bike that could easily power through the sand on the beach but unfortunately, speed is a byproduct of that additional power. Understand that in its 'unlimited power' setting, or even coasting downhill, you can easily hit 30mph. With a 90 lb. bike, and the weight of the rider, you'll need to anticipate a longer braking distance, which will be significantly less than a lighter 40 lb. bicycle. That scenario can be dangerous so it is incumbent upon you to control the speed of your Fat Woody e-cruiser at all times.

Most single speed bicycles provide only a single rear coaster brake. Your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been upgraded with front and rear disc brakes. Riders should understand that they are cable-operated disc brakes which require frequent adjustment for optimal safe operation. Speeds above 25-30mph require hydraulic brake systems, which are more likely to be found on a racing bike, scooter or motorcycle. If you desire to regularly ride your Fat Woody e-cruiser at speeds above 20 mph, you might consider upgrading to a hydraulic braking system.

&nbsp;Ride safe, ride smart. Always wear a helmet!

 Ride safe, ride smart. Always wear a helmet!

For your safety, keep your e-bike's brakes/calipers properly adjusted. Its a relatively easy procedure and is covered in Section 15 - Routine Maintenance.

Lastly, understand that motorcycles/scooters have a front/rear suspension system designed to absorb bumps in the road. Most bicycles don't. Hit a pothole at 25+mph on a rigid bike suspension and quite often operator and bike become airborne, resulting in loss of control.

If you take one thing away from this section, take this... +20mph on a bicycle is fast. Any faster and you can easily ride your Fat Woody beyond the limits of its brakes. 

Respect the power you have. Ride safe and ride smart. Always wear a helmet!

Charge your Fat Woody e-cruiser safely!

Never attempt to connect a 120v charge cable to the e-cruiser charge port in wet conditions (e.g. rain, standing water puddles). Serious injury and/or death by electric shock can occur.

Always use a grounded 3-prong extension cord with a grounded 3-prong 120v receptacle with GFI protection built-in.

Adverse Weather Conditions

While many of your e-bike components are sealed to be weather resistant (light rain), and these components are encased in a composite body, riding your Fat Woody e-cruiser 'under power' in a torrential downpour carries the possibility of a short circuit that can damage the electric drive system. It's not likely, but its possible. The other component to consider is your Bose SoundLink Color bluetooth speaker located inside the storage cubby. It is NOT water tight and if exposed to water, it can be damaged.

Officially... as the builder of the Fat Woody (not the manufacturer of the electrical components), my recommendation is to only operate the e-cruiser when conditions are dry. It's easy to short circuit electrical components when water is involved. If it gets wet, let it dry completely before turning the power on and operating the electric drive system.

Unofficially, its understandable that rainstorms can come up fast in tropical climates. Its happened to me and I quickly zipped home uneventfully until it blew over. The bike was just fine. My point is, exercise good judgement and understand there is always a chance of a short circuit when water is involved. Remember, your Fat Woody has pedals too.

Water and e-bike electrics don't get along very well. Exercise good judgement in how much moisture you expose your Fat Woody to.

Water and e-bike electrics don't get along very well. Exercise good judgement in how much moisture you expose your Fat Woody to.

Cleaning your Fat Woody

Never use a high-pressure washer to clean your Fat Woody e-cruiser. That said, it's okay to carefully spray and mud off the wheels and tires with a garden hose, but try to limit the water to those areas only. The integral Bose speaker can be damaged if exposed to water. Please refer to the Bose SoundLink Color section of this manual for additional information.

If possible, I recommend blowing any dust off with compressed air, followed by gently wiping body components with a mild soapy rag (dish soap). I've also sprayed Windex on a clean soft rag and wiping it down with that. I don't recommend spraying it directly on the bike.

If you happen to get caught in the rain, or the bike does get wet, there are areas on the top center console that can pool water. I recommend blowing that excess water out with compressed air. If you don't have compressed air available, a leaf blower will also do the trick. Make sure you allow the bike components to completely dry or you risk an electrical short that can damage electrics.

Prolonged exposure to the elements will destroy your Fat Woody's finish.

Prolonged exposure to the elements will destroy your Fat Woody's finish.

Don't leave your Fat Woody e-cruiser exposed to the elements!

UV rays are your biggest enemy when it comes to custom toys and your Fat Woody e-cruiser is no exception. While it's been constructed with the finest materials available (with the best UV protection on the market), if you leave it in the sun for days on end, the custom wood veneer finish will fade, crack and peel up.

High heat and humidity can also reduce the life expectancy of e-cruiser electrical systems. The internal battery charger generates quite a bit of heat when charging the battery pack. Charging the battery in a humid, high-temperature environment (direct sunshine) can overheat the charger and damage its internal components.

Use a carrier that supports the wheels/tires.

Transporting your Fat Woody

Due to the unique design and construction of your Fat Woody, ordinary automotive bike racks designed to support the weight of the bike by a center frame tube won't work. In fact, they will cause damage to your e-cruiser composite body.

When transporting your Fat Woody, it's best to consider it as a small, lightweight motorcycle. To that end, you can use a dirt bike carrier designed to slide into your car's receiver hitch. Many are lightweight aluminum, easily attach in minutes, and include a ramp to roll the bike up on. Your Fat Woody weighs about 90 lbs.

Fat Woody offers both one (1) and two (2) bike carriers in our shop.

I also recommend using some soft loop straps to protect your Fat Woody paint and chrome from your tie down strap ends.

Charging the Battery

120v Charge Port / Power Key Switch

120v Charge Port / Power Key Switch

120vac Charging Port

A 120vac charging port is located just below the seat on the right side of the bike. It is protected by a weatherproof dust cover that opens to accept any standard 3-prong power plug extension cord. Once connected to a 120vac power receptacle, all (3) three battery systems will charge simultaneously; Electric Drive System Battery - 50v, Accessory System Battery - 12v, and the on-board wireless bluetooth speaker w/internal battery (speaker will sound a tone and an LED will light).

You can easily check the 'charge status' of your drive system battery via the console LCD display, as it is your battery management system interface. You will need to turn the system on to get that information. Please follow the instructions below.



Builder's Note: Fat Woody is one of the only electric bikes that carries its battery charger system on-board. No need to lug it around with you like other electric cruisers. On my personal bike, I carry around a short 6 ft. extension cord wrapped up in my storage cubby. This enables me to charge 'on the go' at my destination.

Enable the Electrical Systems

Key switch enables/disables e-bike electrics

Key switch enables/disables e-bike electrics

Just below the charge port is a key switch. This switch is used to enable/disable the bike's electrical systems. It does not directly turn on the electrical drive system. The power button on the right side of the console does that. That said, the power button on the console will not activate the drive systems unless this key is turned on (clockwise). The rear LED brake light will operate when the key switch is enabled, independent of the master power button.

Important Note: When the bike is not in use, turn this key switch off. Left on, it will drain the 12v accessory battery (2-3 days max). The 12v accessory battery is used to power the LED lighting system and an on-board relay pack. If the 12v battery goes dead, the electric drive system will not operate. You will then need to recharge the 12v battery through the charge port.

Master Power Button

Located on the right side of the console control panel is the e-cruiser master power button. If the key switch is on, the power button turns on the electric drive system (LCD Display) and enables 12v accessory systems such as horn & lighting.

Be careful! The thumb throttle is now active and if operated, will jolt the bike forward.

When operating the bike, it's recommended that you don't turn on the electric drive system until you're safely seated on the bike and have a ready hand on the brake.

When servicing the bike, keep one hand on the brake and ensure the bike is up on its kickstand. Placing a small board under the kickstand will help by raising the rear wheel slightly during service.

Check the Charge Status

A graphical State of Charge (SoC) icon is located on the upper left side of the LCD display. It features a 'Hot Off Charger' (HOC) pixel at the center top that is set when the battery voltage is greater than 100% of the normal open circuit voltage. This elevated voltage is common, and represents only a small amount of extra usable capacity. Self-discharge will typically reduce battery voltage to normal levels after a period of minutes to days, preventing the HOC pixel from being set.

The remaining pixels show the actual usable 0-100% charge state and are extinguished one by one as the battery discharges.

In addition to the graphical SoC indicator for battery status, users can see exactly how many amp/hours remain in their battery pack on the applicable status screen.

When storing your Fat Woody e-cruiser...

I recommend leaving your Fat Woody e-cruiser plugged in when not riding it or stored. This will keep all the batteries fully maintained and ready for use. The battery pack on your Fat Woody has an internal BMS (Battery Management System) and can not be over-charged.

If you prefer, for peace of mind, you can leave it unplugged when not in use. The smaller on-board 12v battery will only hold a charge for 12-14 days (if the keyed switch is OFF), so you would need to freshen the charge of that battery for a few hours before riding. If the 12v battery is dead, the electric drive systems will not turn on.

Why does the 12v battery slowly drain? The 12v battery pack has an integral 'charged' LED on it which will slowly deplete the battery. It also has a switch to turn the battery off, but since the battery pack is located within the composite body, it is not viewable or accessible.

Range & Performance

Maximum range on a full charge can vary depending on many variables, such as: battery age, terrain, rider weight, temperature, riding style and speed. This chart represents approximate range based on normal road conditions with a rider weight of 200 lbs.

The battery pack is your e-cruiser's energy fuel tank:

AmpHours (Ah): This indicates how much energy your battery pack will hold. The higher the number, the larger your fuel tank is. For example, a 10 Ah battery pack will hold twice as much energy as a comparable 5 Ah battery pack. But that doesn't mean it will have twice the range.

Volts (v): Think of volts as how big your engine is, and the Controller Amps is the size of your carburetor. They don't affect the size of your energy fuel tank (battery), but greatly affect how fast you can use that energy.

Riding Style: How you ride your e-cruiser will have the most impact on its range. You can 'hot rod' for 15-20 miles or you can miserly dole out your energy at low speed and get 35-40 miles.

Tips for maximizing range: Battery packs are perhaps the single most expensive and mission critical component on your e-cruiser. Charge and store your battery pack (bike) at room temperature (65F-85F) if possible. It will optimize your e-cruiser's performance.

Charging your battery pack: Allow 6-8 hours for your battery pack to fully re-charge. When storing the bike, you can leave the charge cable connected. This will keep all the batteries fully maintained and ready for use. The battery pack on your Fat Woody has an internal BMS (Battery Management System) and can not be over-charged.

If you prefer, for peace of mind, you can leave it unplugged when not in use. The smaller on-board 12v battery will only hold a charge for 12-14 days, so you would need to freshen the charge of that battery for a few hours before riding. If the 12v battery is dead, the electric drive systems will not turn on.

Why does the 12v battery slowly drain? The 12v battery pack has an integral 'charged' LED on it which will slowly deplete the battery. It also has a switch to turn the battery off, but since the battery pack is located within the composite body, it is not viewable or accessible.

Conditions affecting your e-cruiser's range:

Ambient Temperature: Extreme cold and heat can affect the battery pack's energy capacity and overall e-bike performance.

Total number of charge cycles: As the battery pack ages, its ability to store energy decreases. Your battery pack is designed for 600-700 complete charge cycles.

Wind: Riding into a strong head-wind will use more energy.

Road Conditions: Sand and hilly terrain will definitely use more energy than level roads.

Load: The more the weight on the bike, the more energy is used. That includes the operator.

Repeated acceleration from a standing start: This is where the most energy is used. Gently feathering electric power to sustain forward motion is optimal and significantly increases your e-cruiser's range.

Speed: If you prefer to cruise everywhere at +20 mph, your range will be significantly less than if you cruise at 10 mph.

Poor Maintenance: Under inflated tires will definitely require more energy to turn, decreasing overall range.

Operator Controls / Dashboard

Keyed Power Switch:  Enables e-Bike Electrical Systems

Key switch enables/disables electrical systems.

Key switch enables/disables electrical systems.

A keyed switch allows users to enable/disable all e-cruiser electrical systems (electric drive, horn & lighting). It's primary function is to prevent any systems from draining your batteries (e.g. lights left on), while it also serves to provide a simple form of security, ensuring only the key holder can activate the bike's electrical systems.

  • Keyed Switch: Insert and turn the key to the ON position (clockwise). This enables the e-cruiser electrical systems.
  • The key can be removed in both 'off & on' positions if desired.
  • Turn the key off when not in use. It will drain the battery.



Important Notes:

  • The key switch is not an anti-theft device. It will not prevent anyone from riding the e-cruiser manually (e.g. pedaling, pushing, etc.).
  • Turn the key to the OFF position (counter-clockwise) when the bike is not in use. If left in the ON position, it will drain the 12v accessory battery in 48-72 hours. The electric drive systems will not operate if the 12v battery is dead.

3-Position 'Power Mode' Switch

Fat Woody provides riders with a choice of three (3) power modes/settings. Owners can program speed & power limits for each of these modes. This allows the bike to have a State compliant 'street legal' mode of operation for operation on public roadways, while also providing an 'unlimited power' mode for off-road, steep hills, and sand.

  • Setting I: Low Power Setting - 'Street Legal' Mode (e.g. 1000 watts @ 20 mph max speed)
  • Setting II: Medium Power Setting - 'Off-Road' Mode (e.g. 1500 watts @ 25 mph max speed)
  • Setting III: High Power Setting - 'Unlimited' Mode (e.g. 2500 watts @ 30 mph)

These are just examples of how the e-bike management system can be setup for your specific needs (State requirements)

Dashboard Pushbutton Control Switches

There are four (4) pushbutton switches that provide control of various e-cruiser systems.

  • Main Power Button: Press to activate e-bike electric drive system (LCD display) and 12v accessory systems (lights, horn).
  • Lighting Button: Press to activate headlamp & tail lamp. Pushbutton switch lighting will also illuminate.
  • Horn Button: Activates the Fat Woody 'look at me' audible horn device.
  • Cruise Control Button: Press the thumb throttle to get to the speed you want to cruise at. Once at a steady speed, press the cruiser control momentary pushbutton and the e-bike will maintain that speed. To disengage cruise control, operate either brake lever or press the thumb throttle again.
Safety Note: Cruise control can pose a potentially dangerous runaway situation. Inexperienced or unfamiliar operators can become confused as to how to disengage cruise control properly, so exercise extreme caution using this feature.

Cycle Analyst e-Bike Computer

What it is...

The Cycle Analyst is the first digital dashboard and battery monitor originally designed around the specific needs of electric bicycle. Its flexible setup configurations, wide feature range, and affordable price have led it to widespread appeal in a range of other EV (electric vehicle) applications. From the dashboard of MIT's solar car, to record breaking electric motorbikes, to small trains, powered wheelchairs, and even sailboats and airplanes, the Cycle Analyst has become the e-meter of choice for keeping track of the vehicles battery usage and performance characteristics.

What it does...

Once connected to the vehicle's power bus, the Cycle Analyst calculates and shows the following information:

  • Volts, Watts, Amps: The instantaneous electric power being drawn from the battery.
  • Amp-Hours, Watt Hours: The net energy that has been pulled from the pack since the meter was reset. The accumulated amp-hours let you know the remaining energy in the battery pack with far greater accuracy than a voltage or LED indicator.
  • Speed, Distance, Time: All of the basic features of a bicycle computer, including the average and maximum trip speeds, plus a total distance odometer.
  • Total Battery Cycles and Amp-Hours: Retains life cycle information on the vehicle's battery pack, such as how many charge and discharge cycles the pack has experienced and the total amp-hours that were delivered over its entire life.

Furthermore, the Cycle Analyst has the ability to over-ride the user's throttle and regulate the power delivered to the motor, turning an otherwise dumb e-bike into an intelligent device with a user programmable speed limit, current limit, and low voltage cutout.

  • Speed Limit: This has the utility of providing legal compliance to the speed cap imposed on e-bikes in most jurisdictions. When used with a full throttle, it serves as a cruise control on the electric bicycle. It can also be beneficial to riders who want to increase their torque and power by using a higher voltage battery, without simultaneously increasing their top-end speed.
  • Current Limit: An adjustable amps limit is useful to prevent damage to the batteries from excessive current draw, to increase the range that you'll get on a charge, and  to protect the motor controller and motor in setups that draw too many amps.
  • Voltage Cutout: A low voltage cutout is used to protect a battery pack from being discharged too deeply, which can cause cell reversals in NIMH/NiCad packs, permanent cell damage in Lithium packs, and sulfation in Lead Acid batteries. The programmable low voltage rollback allows you to set an appropriate low voltage point tailored to your pack.
Builder's Note: The power e-bike systems operate within is substantial and it can easily fry your rear hub motor, battery pack and associated controller systems without warning.
Example: Going uphill or plowing through sand generates a tremendous amount of heat within your e-bike motor. E-bike users for years have had to use what we could now call dumb e-bikes. Just a simple battery level indicator and that's it. You don't know exactly when you were approaching the limits of your e-bike electrical system. This resulted in a lot of e-bike system melt-downs. $$$
Having the technology capability to sense heat in the motor and automatically rollback throttle and power, protecting your electric drive system and associated components, is essential. The Cycle Analyst 'intelligent' e-bike management system on your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been configured to provide optimum performance and protection of your e-cruiser investment.


Additional features include:

  • Backlit LCD: The display readout is well illuminated for night riding.
  • Water Resistant: The circuitry is fully enclosed in a sealed box enabling it to withstand exposure to wet and rainy conditions.
  • Save on Power Down: Trip data such as amp-hours and distance are saved when the meter is shut off, and are restored when power is re-applied.

Cycle Analyst V3.0 Operation Instructions


The Cycle Analyst has two modes of operation:

  • User Mode - Provides the rider with electrical drive system information / status.
  • Setup Mode - Allows users to make changes to e-bike programming

When the CA (Cycle Analyst) is turned on, it defaults to the 'User Mode' of operation. While it is not necessary for you to familiarize yourself with the 'Setup Mode', it is necessary for you to become familiar with the basic features of the 'User Mode'.

Basic Navigation

Navigating the Cycle Analyst can feel a little tricky at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. There are two user interface buttons; a 'left button' and a 'right button'. Pressing these buttons toggle left and right (or up and down) through various screens, while pressing & holding the right button selects something (or opens a 2nd tier menu). For the most part, pressing & holding is used in the 'Setup Mode'.

  • Press right/left buttons to navigate to the next/previous status of Setup Screens
  • Press/hold the left button to enter Setup Navigation mode
  • Press/hold the left button to exit Setup Navigation mode
  • Press/hold the right button to reset trip statistics
  • From the 'Min & Max Stats' status screen, press/hold the right button to reset the peak trip statistics

Let's start with a function you'll most likely use every time you re-charge your e-cruiser.

Reset Trip Statistics - To reset the trip statistics, simply press & hold the right button.


Builders Note: Resetting trip statistics is typically only done after you fully charge the battery. While it resets the trip-meter, it also resets the power-units used meter. This is probably the most important piece of information you'll use on your e-bike.
How to read your e-bike's electrical fuel tank?
Most electric bikes have a simple gauge or LED indicator to represent the battery pack's state of charge (SoC). While easy to read and understand, they are not super precise. The CA has this 'graphical gauge' on the top left of the LCD display, but it also has an even more accurate way of displaying exactly how much power is left in the battery. You just need to understand how to read it.
High-end electric vehicles use a super accurate electrical meter that tracks every power unit used (like the meter on the side of your house). While the electrical meter can measure voltage and current flowing past it, it technically can't measure how big your battery is. That said, for the SOC indicator icon to function properly, we have programmed in the size of your battery (@ 14.8Ah).
So if you fully charge your 14.8 Ah battery (represents power-units in your battery tank), every time you press the throttle, you spend power-units (Amp-Hours/Ah). The meter keeps track and displays this data in real time. Once your meter gets to 14.8Ah, you are out of power. The meter counts up to 14.8, not down from 14.8 to zero.
So if you go for a 20 mile ride, and your CA shows you used exactly 8Ah of battery power, you know you have 6.8Ah of battery power left to use. If you turn off the e-bike, that information is saved. When you get back on the bike and turn on the CA, the meter will continue from that point, cumulatively counting Ah and miles traveled.
If you reset the trip statistics without fully charging the battery, not only does the trip-meter reset to zero, but the power meter resets to zero. The reset can fool some riders into thinking they now have 14.8Ah left, when in actuality, only 6.8Ah is left in the battery. That could leave you 'out of power' when you least expect it. Just understand that's how the meter works.


User Mode

Status 'Display Screens'

The CA powers up to the status display screens which may be traversed with short L/R button presses. There are eleven (11) screens, which display information grouped by function. Certain values (e.g. speed, amps) are displayed on more than one screen to give a more comprehensive view of related information without changing screens.

Builder's Note: There are (5) status display screens on your Fat Woody. While there are (11) screens available, many are not applicable to your Fat Woody e-cruiser and have been programmed to be 'hidden'. These screens can be enabled through CA programming, but provide no additional information that riders might find useful.

Before reviewing the status screens, there are a few 'non-numeric' graphics (or glyphs) on the left side of the display that should be explained. The Main Status screen displays the following status information in addition to the numeric values:

  • Battery Gas Gauge: Graphic indicates battery state of charge (SOC) from Full to Empty (top left of display).
  • Temp Alert: When temperature limiting is in effect, the Battery Gas Gauge alternates with a Thermometer alert with 'mercury' showing relative temperature in the range.
  • Operator Throttle Bar: Shows 0-100% of the throttle range (bottom left of display). It also shows an animated e-brake lever graphic when the e-brakes are applied.


State of Charge Indicator

A graphical State of Charge (SoC) icon is located on the upper left side of the LCD display. It features a 'Hot Off Charger' (HOC) pixel at the center top that is set when the battery voltage is greater than 100% of the normal open circuit voltage. This elevated voltage is common, and represents only a small amount of extra usable capacity. Self-discharge will typically reduce battery voltage to normal levels after a period of minutes to days, preventing the HOC pixel from being set.

The remaining pixels show the actual usable 0-100% charge state and are extinguished one by one as the battery discharges.

In addition to the graphical SoC indicator for battery status, users can see exactly how many amp/hours remain in their battery pack on the applicable status screen.


Status Display Screens - Detailed Review

The V3 Cycle Analyst has a total of 11 display screens to scroll through, and as a user you can mask screens that you don't want to show up from the 'Preferences' section of the setup menu. Please note that your Fat Woody has been programmed to hide screens that are not applicable.

Display #1 - Main Screen

The primary display screen shows at a glance all of the key info you would want to see from the bike. There is a battery fuel gauge in the top left, plus a readout of your pack voltage, speed, and battery power draw. The bottom right corner toggles between showing your accumulated trip distance, accumulated battery amp-hours, and motor hub temperature (if enabled).

Meanwhile, on the bottom left there are two additional graphic blocks. A throttle slider icon shows visually where your input throttle is at, switching to flashing mode if throttle auto-cruise is latched, and then to a brake lever if the e-brakes are engaged. Adjacent to this is a human power indicator that works if you have a PAS (pedal assist) sensor enabled, indicating either your human power or your pedal cadence.

Also note that if you exceed the speed limit, then the speed units will flash, and if you hit the battery low voltage cutoff then the voltage sign will flash. If you are below the minimum start speed, then the speed number itself will flash.


Builder's Note: Certain features provided by the CA are not used or enabled on this bike. The CA has been configured for use consistent with the design of the Fat Woody e-cruiser. Auto-cruise, PAS, and minimum start speeds are not used/enabled on your Fat Woody e-cruiser. Turning them on may cause improper and/or undesired operation.
In addition, your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been programmed with some of the following status display screens hidden, but we felt it important that you knew they were there, and what information the provide.


Display #2 - Electrical Only (Hidden on Fat Woody e-Cruiser)

Display Screen #2 - Electrical Only

Display Screen #2 - Electrical Only

The 2nd screen only shows electrical stats: Volts, Watts, Amps, and Amp-Hours. It's useful when using the CA on non-vehicle systems where all the additional details on the first screen are not relevant.


Display #3 - Human Power (Hidden on Fat Woody e-Cruiser)

Display Screen #3 - Human Power

Display Screen #3 - Human Power

The 3rd screen is interesting for people who have a torque sensor in their system. The top line shows key vehicle stats: your voltage, amps and speed, while the 2nd line displays your human power input and pedal cadence.


Display #4 - Energy Mileage (Hidden on Fat Woody e-Cruiser)

Display Screen #4 - Energy Mileage

Display Screen #4 - Energy Mileage

The 4th screen is the same popular readout from the previous CA V2 devices which shows the net watt-hours taken from the battery pack, as well as your energy 'mileage' in units of Wh/km or Wh/mi. This is the equivalent to gas mileage in L/100km, and the smaller the number the better energy economy and longer range you'll get from a battery pack.


Display #5 - Human Stats (Hidden on Fat Woody e-Cruiser)

Display Screen #5 - Human Stats

Display Screen #5 - Human Stats

The 5th screen is a summary of the human power statistics for the trip, showing the total human watt-hours, along with the average watts and average pedal cadence. Note that the human watts are only averaged while the rider is pedaling, so if you coast or ride throttle only for a while this won't reduce your average.


Display #6 - Regenerative Braking (Hidden on Fat Woody e-Cruiser)

Display Screen #6 - Regenerative Braking

Display Screen #6 - Regenerative Braking

The relative benefits of regen are debated at length in the e-bike community, and the point of the screen is to at least help provide analytic numbers to the discussion. On the left you will see the % by which your range has increased as a result of regen, and on the right it toggles between the total forwards and reverse amp-hours that were accumulated. (The Ah display on the 1st and 3rd screen is the net difference).


Display #7 - Max and Mins (Hidden on Fat Woody e-Cruiser)

Display Screen #7 - Max and Mins

Display Screen #7 - Max and Mins

Screen #7 shows the electrical max and mins on the system. Usually the amps isn't all that interesting since it will be the same as your controller current limit, but the Amin will show the max regen current, and the multiplication of Amax and Vmin will typically coincide with the maximum power draw as well.


Display #8 - Speed Stats

Display Screen #8 - Speed Stats

Display Screen #8 - Speed Stats

Screen #8 shows Max speed, average speed, and trip time. In some cases you may see a somewhat wild value for MaxS. This can be the result of a double bounce in the speedometer pickup switch and adjusting the relative magnet and sensor positions can solve it.


Display #9 - Odometer

Display Screen #9 - Odometer

Display Screen #9 - Odometer

Here you can see the same total trip distance as the first screen (Main), but with much greater precision, along with the lifetime odometer of the vehicle.


Display #10 - Battery Stats

Display Screen #10 - Battery Stats

Display Screen #10 - Battery Stats

The battery statistics includes the lifetime cycles and amp-hours of the battery pack, along with a current estimate on the battery's internal resistance in Ohms. The Cycles count increments every time you reset the CA by holding the right button, and both the Cycles and Total Amp-Hours are unique to each battery. So if you have both an 'A' and 'B' battery enabled, you can keep separate stats on each pack.

The battery resistance is computed on the fly by seeing how much voltage sag accompanies changes in current draw. This stat is useful, not only to quantify the performance of the pack but also to assess its aging and cold weather behavior. The internal resistance of most batteries will start to increase well before there is much noticeable decrease in amp-hour capacity.


Display #11 - Diagnostics

The final display screen is most useful when initially setting up the CA for various feedback and control modes. On the top line you can see both the input throttle voltage from the user, as well as the output voltage that the CA is sending to the motor controller.

The bottom line has a row of limit flags showing which throttle limiting feedback loops are currently engaged. So if you are exceeding the speed limit, the 's' becomes a large 'S', and similar flags for the current limit (a/A), power limit (w/W), low voltage rollback (v/V) and thermal rollback (t/T).

Cycle Analyst V3.0 Programming Instructions

Cycle Analyst V3.0 Setup Menu

The CA 'Setup Mode' is accessed by pressing and holding the left button for several seconds, or by holding the right button down while the CA is powered up. It is a 2-level deep menu list organized into 13 high level groups to let you adjust over 60 different settings. Remember pressing the left/right buttons toggle the menus left/right (or up/down), while pressing & holding the right button opens that menu or selects an item for modification.

There are also a few visual cues to help with navigation. Arrows on the left and right show when there are more items in the current menu level, while a straight bar indicates you are at the end of the list, and pressing the next button will take you up a level.

Once you enter the 'Setup Mode', you can toggle through a series of 13 category menus you can select from and/or modify. Each category menu provides a small preview line showing some of the key settings and real-time input signals for that category.

Once in the setup mode, pressing the left/right buttons will toggle through these 13 category menus.

Once in the setup mode, pressing the left/right buttons will toggle through these 13 category menus.

1 - Setup Speedometer

Preview line shows current units (mi/km), current wheel size (in inches, #Poles, and the state of the speed sensor input (up arrow = 5V, down arrow = 0V)

Units: Select between using units of kilometers or miles. Notice that changing this will not rescale the odometer, speed limits, etc.

Circuf: Exact wheel circumference in mm.

#Poles: This is the number of magnetic pulses received to equal one full wheel revolution. The Fat Woody CA utilizes an external speed sensor mounted on the left front fork. A small magnet, mounted to the left side of the front wheel rim, passes this sensor and the CA counts these as pulses. For greater resolution of exact speed, you can place more magnets around the wheel and increase the # of poles to match # of magnets.

TotDist: Let's you pre-load the vehicle odometer.


2 - Setup Battery

Preview line shows nominal voltage and chemistry of the selected battery pack.

A or B: Lets you choose the current battery preset provided that you've already enabled 2 batteries. Otherwise, this screen does not show up. All values following will be linked accordingly to either battery 'A' or 'B', including the cycles and total Ah statistics.

Chemistry: Select the cell chemistry of your battery pack (Fat Woody utilizes LiMn)

LiMn: Lithium Manganese

LiPo: Lithium Polymer

RCLiP: Lithium Polymer used in R/C vehicles (High 'C' Discharge Rate)

LiFe: Lithium Iron Phosphate

SLA: Sealed Lead Acid

NiMH: Nickel Metal Hydride or NiCad

String#: Number of cells strung together in series to make the battery pack. For LiMN and LiPo, 36V is 10S, 48V is 13S.

Capacity: This is the capacity of the battery pack in amp-hours, which is used to improve the accuracy of the battery fuel gauge display while you are drawing current.

Vlt Cutoff: This is the low voltage rollback. When the CA detects the battery voltage falling below Vlt Cutoff, it will gradually scale back the power draw to keep the voltage from dropping any lower.

LoVGain: This is the feedback gain setting for the low voltage rollback. A higher number will result in the power scaling back more abruptly when voltage falls below the cutoff.

TotCyc: This is the total number of charge cycles on the battery pack, assuming that the CA was reset after each full recharge.

TotAhrs: This is the total life cycle amp-hours that have been pulled from the battery to date.


3 - Setup Throttle In

Preview line shows measured voltage of throttle input, the equivalent % throttle that this voltage corresponds to, and the throttle mode (amps, speed, pass-thru, etc.)

Cntrl Mode: Allows you to select the function of the user's input throttle. Your Fat Woody has been configured for Pass-Thru throttle mode operation.

Pass-Thru: User throttle is linearly remapped from the input throttle range to the output throttle range, and then passed on to the output.

Current (A): User throttle controls the battery current, from 0A up to the value in the Max Current. If using this mode, it makes sense to have your CA's Max Current equal to or lower than the controller's current limit, otherwise only part of the range will be mapped.

Speed (kph): User throttle directly controls the speed of the bike, from 0 up to the value in Max Speed. This is not a recommended throttle mode for most scenarios as small twitches in the throttle can result in large pulses of power as the bike attempts to track this.

Power (W): User throttle controls the power to the motor controller, from 0 up to the value in Max Power. In this mode, you should not have your Max Power set much higher than your battery voltage times the controller current limit.

Off ( 0V ): This mode ignores the input throttle, and sets the output throttle signal low. The output can then only go high if you have one of the PAS modes enabled and are pedaling. You can achieve the same thing by simply unplugging the throttle, but this option can be useful if you want to swap between different presets with and without throttle modes.

Off (WOT): User throttle is ignored as well, the the CA's output will default to Max Throttle until one of the limits is exceeded. This is included for legacy support for people using a V3 CA on a controller designed for V2 CA-DP connector, which have a separate throttle feeding the controller and the CA is diode connected to only pull that signal down. If this mode is selected with the CA's output going directly to a CA3 compatible controller, then it will cause the bike to take off on power up. So be careful.

Min Input: This is the voltage threshold for the lower bounds of the input throttle. When the throttle signal is less than this, then it is assumed the throttle is off. It should be set at least 0.2V higher than the voltage present on the throttle when the throttle is disengaged. If it is set very close to your actual minimum voltage signal and you have one of the PAS modes enabled, then electrical noise can cause the CA to briefly assume that you are using the throttle which will disable the PAS output, resulting in a momentary drop in power.

Max Input: This sets the upper bound that is considered the 'full throttle' voltage. It is possible to play with this voltage to adjust your throttle range and sensitivity, but normally it would be set about 0.2V lower than your actual full throttle voltage.

Fault Volt: This sets a fault detection threshold. If the throttle signal is higher than the Fault Volt, the CA will assume there is a fault and not treat it as full throttle. This situation can happen for instance if the throttle's ground wire gets disconnected while the 5V and Signal lines are still connected. You would usually want this about 0.1V higher than you actual full throttle voltage.

Auto Cruis: This feature enables you to have a cruise mode if you hold the throttle steady in the same position for a length of time. At that point, the throttle slide on the first (Main) screen will start to flash. You can release the throttle but the CA will still maintain that throttle setting. The cruise mode is released anytime you hit the e-brakes or operate the throttle again.

Off: Auto Cruise Mode is Disabled.

2 Sec - 8 Sec: Auto Cruise will latch after holding throttle for (x) seconds.

Important Note: Your Fat Woody has been designed with a 'push button' cruise control connected to the controller (not the CA). Auto Cruise is disabled (turned OFF) on the CA. DO NOT enable this feature without discussing with Fat Woody, or there could be a conflict in e-bike operation that could be potentially dangerous.

Cruise Hld: This setting lets you adjust adjust the voltage sensitivity for the auto cruise throttle latch. If you have twitchy thumb throttle, then you may need to have a large voltage band. Too large of a band can cause the auto cruise feature to latch inadvertently even when you didn't want it.


4 - Setup Throttle Out

Preview line shows the current output throttle range, whether it is in Volts or mS pulse width, and has a crude graphical indicator of the throttle ramp rate.

Outpt Mode: Lets you select between a steady analog voltage output from the CA's Throttle Output line, or a 1-2mS RC servo style pulse output.

Min Out: This is the lower output throttle range. You can use the pass-thru throttle mode to see exactly what voltage your controller starts to respond to a throttle signal, and then set the Min Output about 0.2V less than this.

Max Out: This is the maximum voltage the CA will send to the controller. Many controllers have an over-voltage throttle fault, so you want to make sure the CA's throttle output does not exceed this. For most e-bike controllers, the throttle that results in full power is somewhere between 3.5 to 3.9V.

Brake Out: This is the voltage output of the CA when you squeeze the e-brakes. In some setups, you can use a lower value than the Min Out setting to have your controller recognize that the brakes are activated and engage regen.

Up Rate: This sets a firm maximum ramp-up rate for the throttle output signal, and can be used to smooth out harsh kick on powerful systems. A lower value in V/sec will result in a longer time for the throttle to ramp up, resulting in a more gentle application of power. Values of 0.5 to 2 V/sec are recommended.

Down Rate: This can be used to clamp how fast the throttle output will ramp downwards. For safety reasons, you would generally leave this at a high value so that the system can shut off promptly, but there can be times where a slower disengagement of motor power is preferred. Values of 4 to 8 V/sec are recommended.

Fast Rate: This is an additional fast ramp-up rate for the throttle output that applies only if the CA has not detected any current flow from the battery. It allows the CA's output to quickly reach a level that's starts having an effect on the controller before then dropping to the normal 'up rate' limit. This eliminates the lag time for ramped throttle output to catch up with the bike when you apply the throttle and are already moving. Values of 4-8 V/sec are recommended.

Fast Thrsh: This sets the threshold current that must be seen by the CA for it to switch from the 'Fast Rate' to the standard ramp-up rate. For direct drive hub motors, it should be quite low, like 0.5 to 1 A. But for geared motors and mid-drive systems, it should be higher than the no-load current required to accelerate the motor from still. Usually a threshold of 2 to 4 Amps works well.

Builder's Note: The next few 'setup menus' make specific changes to the Preset you've selected. Your Fat Woody has three (3) different 'presets' that correspond to the 3-position switch (power settings) on the left side of your handlebar.
For example, if you want to make changes to Preset #1 - Legal power setting (switch position 1), put the switch to position 1 before entering the Setup menu. Any changes made, like lowering the speed limit or lowering the power will only be made to Preset #1 - Legal. If you want to change limits in Preset #2, exit setup first, then put the switch to position 2, and then enter setup again.
This is key: Once you make changes to a preset, exit setup for the changes to take effect. Do not change the 3-position switch while in the setup mode. If you're changing multiple presets, always exit setup, then change the switch, and re-enter setup.

5 - Setup Speed Limits

Preview line shows the speed limit of the selected preset.

Max Speed: Upper speed limit. The CA will roll-back its throttle output voltage if you start to exceed this limit setting.

Strt Speed: This is a minimum starting speed that must be reached before the CA will allow an output. The rider must pedal the bike up to the Strt Speed before power will be applied to the hub motor.

IntSGain: Integral feedback gain for speed PID control loop. Lower values give smoother control and less likelihood of hunting, but it can increase the time it takes for the speed limit to stabilize.

PSGain: Proportional feedback term for speed control loop. Displayed in terms of Volts / (mph or kph). So if you set it to 0.5V/kph, then for each km/hr you go above the speed limit, the throttle output will immediately drop by 0.5V.

DSGain: Differential feedback term for speed control loop. This is used to dampen oscillations from speed limiting as it allows the CA to anticipate that you are accelerating towards the speed limit and scale back power before you reach it. Values in the 100-300 range seem to work well.


6 - Setup Power Limits

Preview line shows the amps limit and watts limit of the selected preset.

Max Current: This sets a current limit in Amps for the selected preset. This value may be further scaled down by the throttle, and/or the Aux Voltage, and/or the temperature limit.

A Gain: Feedback gain for the current control loop. Generally it should be increased until you start to feel the current limiting being rough or oscillating, and then scaled back about 30%.

Max Power: This sets a power limit in Watts for the selected preset. It has a very similar effect as a current limit, except that it is independent of the battery voltage.

W Gain: Same as the A Gain above, only now applied to the power limiting feedback loop. This is also used by any control modes that are based on power limit, such as AutoPAS mode or Torque Assist. Gain values between 10-20 seem to work well with most e-bikes operating in the pedal assist mode.


7 - Setup PAS Sensor (Pedal Assist is not a feature on your Fat Woody e-cruiser)

Preview line shows # of PAS poles, the state of both the PAS and DIR digital inputs (up arrow is 5V, down arrow is 0V), and the current PAS assist mode. While there are many settings in this menu, your Fat Woody e-cruiser is not equipped with pedal assist sensors. Keep the PAS mode disabled.


8 - Setup Torque Sensor (Torque Sensing is not a feature on your Fat Woody e-cruiser)

Preview line shows the measure voltage from the torque sensor signal. If the torque sensor is enabled, then it shows the corresponding calculated N-m of torque on the cranks. While there are many settings in this menu, your Fat Woody e-cruiser is not equipped with torque sensors. Keep the TRQ mode disabled.


9 - Setup Temp Sensor

Preview line shows the measured voltage from the temperature sensor pad as well as the corresponding temperature in degrees if temperature scaling is enabled.

Sensor: Select which type (if any) of temperature sensor is connected.

Disabled: Temp Sensor not used.

10K Thrmstr: Voltage is scaled into degrees Celsius assuming a 10K NTC thermistor with a beta constant of ~3900.

Linear Type: Voltage is scaled linearly into a temperature reading based on a custom scale and offset. This is the type your Fat Woody uses.

0 Deg: (bug in Prim6 shows 'Units' text instead) Only present if Linear Type is selected. This represents the sensor voltage that is treated zero degrees.

Fat Woody Setting - 0v = 0 degrees

T Scale: Also only present if Linear Type is selected. This sets the scaling factor for converting the sensor voltage into degrees, Deg/V.

Fat Woody Setting - 100 deg / 1 v

Thrsh Temp: This is the temperature at which thermal rollback of the CA's current limit begins to kick in.

Fat Woody Setting - 100 degrees C

Max Temp: This is the temperature at which the thermal rollback will have brought the CA's current limit down to 0 amps. The current limit is scaled linearly down from the Max Amps to zero amps as the temperature increases from Thrsh Temp to Max Temp.

Fat Woody Setting - 130 degrees C


10 - Setup Aux Pot

Preview line shows measured voltage of the auxiliary potentiometer input, the equivalent % full scale limit that this voltage corresponds to, and the limit value that is being scaled (amps, speed, watts, etc.)

Function: This determines the function of the auxiliary potentiometer input.

Off: Voltage on the POT input pin is ignored.

Limits: Voltage on the POT input pin is used to scale one of the CA's limit parameters.

Presets: Voltage on the POT input pin is used to switch between different mode presets, if mode presets are enabled. Mode presets have been enabled / pre-programmed on your Fat Woody e-cruiser.

Scale Lim: This option only shows up if 'Limits' are selected as a function for the Aux Pot input.

Amps Lim: Voltage on the POT input pin linearly scales the current limit, from 0 to Max Amps.

Speed Lim: Voltage on the POT input pin linearly scales the speed limit, from 0 to Max Speed.

Power Lim: Voltage on the POT input pin linearly scales the power limit, from 0 to Max Watts.

PAS Level: Voltage on the POT input pin linearly scales the proportional PAS assist, either your PAS Watts in AutoPAS mode, or your Assist Factor in TrqPAS Mode.

Min Aux In: This sets the lower range of the auxiliary potentiometer input. Any voltages less than this will be treated as zero.

Max Aux In: This sets the upper range of the auxiliary potentiometer input. Any voltages higher than this will be treated as 100%.


11- Setup Calibration

Preview line shows the programmed value for RShunt in mOhms.

Range: The CA can be configured in a Low Range mode appropriate for e-bikes, as well as a High Range mode intended for elevtric cars, motorcycles, and other large EV's.

Lo (W): This mode is intended for system with shunt sense resistors that are in the 1-9mOhm range. Current resolution is to 0.01A and power is shown in watts. This is the range your Fat Woody e-cruiser uses.

Hi (kW): The high range mode is intended for high current systems. This range is NOT used on the Fat Woody e-cruiser.

RShunt: The CA is only as accurate as the calibration value for the current sense shunt resistor. The calibration value for your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been pre-programmed with a value of 1.1 mOhms.

Zero-Amps: Pressing the button here will take the present amperage readings as the 'zero amps' reference. After holding the button, you will see two voltages on the screen which are the outputs of the two current amplifiers. They should be around 2.5V.

VScale: This is used to calibrate the voltage display. The factory calibration is about 31V/V. If you use an external voltage divider, you would set this to match the voltage scaling ratio.


12 - Setup Presets

Preview line shows the number of mode presets (1, 2, or 3), and number of batteries (1 or 2) which are enabled. In use, you can change between the presets by pressing both buttons, right first to change the battery, and left first to change the preset mode.

Preset Cnt: Select how many preset modes you will use.

Only 1: Effectively disables mode presets.

1&2 En: Allows you to easily toggle between two distinct sets of CA limit, PAS, and throttle settings.

1,2&3: Allows you to setup and toggle between 3 distinct CA limits, PAS, and throttle settings. Your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been configured with this option selected.

Preset #1 Name: Lets you select a name for the first CA preset. There are currently 14 possible names to choose from (Blank, Low, Medium, High, Economy, OffRoad, Unlmted, Legal, Pdl Ast, Trq Ast, Power, Current, and Speed). Assigning a name does NOT preload any particular set of limit values, so you will still need to manually input the various current, speed, and power limits, throttle, and PAS mappings that you want for each preset.

Preset #2 Name: Lets you select a name for the 2nd CA preset. This option only shows up if you have at least (2) two mode presets enabled.

Preset #2 Name: Lets you select a name for the 3rd CA preset. This option only shows up if you have at least all (3) three mode presets enabled.

Crnt Prset: Select which of the 3 possible presets is currently active. This screen only shows up if you have at least 2 mode presets enabled.

Power On: Here you can select the behavior of the CA when it is turned off and on.

Last Preset: The CA will boot up in the same preset it was in when powered down.

Preset #1: The CA will always default to the first preset whenever it boots up.

Batteries?: Here you select whether battery presets are enabled as well.

Batt A only: Only one battery pack setup.

Batts A&B: Allows you to easily toggle between two different battery packs.


13 - Setup Preferences

There is no preview line info in the final 'Setup Preferences' setup group.

Main Disp: Here you can choose if the primary display screen shows amps or watts on the lower left corner.

Averaging: This controls the time period for the display averaging of the voltage and power readings. A short value like 0.15 Sec will result in a screen shows nearly instant readings but can fluctuate too fast to process, while a long value like 1.2 seconds will be very steady but will lag in reacting to changes in power draw.

Data Rate: Allows you to select between a 1Hz or 5Hz data output rate for data logging. The 5Hz rate can show more interesting vehicle dynamics, but the file size on long trips can become quite large.

Vshutdown: This is the threshold voltage at which the display shuts down and the CA powers off to save data. It should not be set lower than 10V or else data may not save correctly. If you set it to higher value, then the message 'Low V' will appear on the screen whenever voltages are low. Do not confuse this with the Low Volt Cutoff for low voltage pack protection.

Stop Scrns: This allows you to customize which of the 11 'User' display screens show up on the CA when the e-bike is stopped. Each screen is listed in sequence, with a '1' indicating that it shows up, while a '0' means that it will be skipped.

Movn Scrns: This allows for an even smaller subset of screens to show up when you scroll through the CA's display when the e-bike is in motion.

Bar End Handlebar Grips / Turn Signals

Your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been provided with Firefly grips, a product of RideOut Technologies. To operate the turn signal indicator, simply press the soft rubber button with your thumb. The flashing LED indicator will operate for approximately 30 seconds and then automatically turn off. If you prefer, you can turn off the indicator by pressing the button a second time.

Replacing the Batteries

Each grip is powered by its own AAA battery. To replace the battery, simply loosen the small bolt located nearest the light (2mm Allen wrench required). When fully loosened, gently pull the light straight off and you'll see the battery end. The majority of the battery is under a plastic cover. Roll back the cover and replace the battery. Reassemble the Firefly grips making sure to fully tighten the Allen bolt. Use LocTite thread lock if you can. This will ensure the bolt does not loosen over time.



'Houston... we have a problem.'

Scream Icon.jpg

You turn the bike on and nothing happens. Frustrating? ... understandably so.

Expected? ... actually, yes.  At some point, that is likely to happen. It's all part of e-Bike ownership.


Troubleshooting your Fat Woody Cruiser

In an effort to help you quickly and easily diagnose issues with your e-cruiser, I have put together three sections relating to the type of problem you may be experiencing. Please scroll to the section below that best describes your situation.

✔︎  Section 1 - It's dead. Nothing happens when I turn it on and I don't know where to start.

✔︎  Section 2 - I think I know what might be wrong. I want to short cut to a specific troubleshooting section.

✔︎  Section 3 - It's an operational issue. It's working, but not as it is supposed to.

Section 1 - Start at the beginning...

This is essentially a simple-to-follow  'yes/no decision-tree' troubleshooting guide for isolating issues to a problematic component. 

Before you take the bike apart or transport it to your local service shop, let's start by verifying a few things. It's quite possible it could be something simple.


Basic Troubleshooting - Start Here

Verify the Keyed Power Switch is turned on (clockwise). Yes... this happens more than you might think. 😊

  • Did turning the key fix the problem?
Yes - You're good to go. Back to Table of Contents.
No - (Abnormal) Click Here


Section 2 - Troubleshooting Short Cuts

If you know where you want to go quickly, here are some quick-links to get you there in a hurry.

Electric Drive System

Disassembling your Fat Woody

With the exception of removing the front wheel, most all service procedures (including removal of the rear wheel) will require disassembly of the Fat Woody composite body. Most all service on the Fat Woody e-cruiser can be accomplished by disassembling the upper faux-tank unit. Rarely will it be necessary to disassemble the lower unit which houses the battery pack and Bose speaker system. For ease of service, your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been designed to facilitate most all maintenance from the left side of the bike.


Warning: Fat Woody paint and finishes can be easily scratched and damaged. This is a custom bike, so there are no freshly painted replacement parts on the shelf. Repairs to the finishes can be expensive. Handle all finished parts extremely carefully (painted, leather or powder coated).


Helpful Hints: Here's the reality... Removing the fiberglass is easy. Reinstalling it can be painful, and at times frustrating (as my neighbors down the street can confirm). But it doesn't have to be.
Having disassembled and reassembled Fat Woody's fiberglass body components a few hundred times, I have found some helpful tricks that will make it easier. Please read these. They are worth the time and will definitely help to keep obscenities to a minimum.
⚠️  Also.... NEVER torque down the fiberglass attachment bolts. Press down on the fiberglass and snug them. Torquing them will stress and crack the fiberglass components. It's not necessary to torque if you snug the bolt with the lock washer.

Top Console / Faux-Tank Disassembly

The upper tank is made up of three (3) composite components: the top console and two tank clams (left/right). The left/right tank clams can't come apart until the top console is removed.

Top Console Removal

Due to the unique design of the Fat Woody, the top console can't be removed without first removing the seat and handlebar quill stem.

Remove the Seat

With a 14mm socket/ratchet, loosen the left/right nuts (equally) under the seat.

⚠️  Note: Click on the images to expand photos.




Remove the Handlebar Quill Stem


Helpful Hint: The handlebar unit is a little more tricky. Because the handlebar brake/electrical cables do not provide enough slack to move the entire assembly (stem and bar) up 5-6 inches, it will be necessary to separate the handlebar from the stem and rotate the handlebars forward (over the top), resting them on top of the headlight. Be sure to place a towel on top of the headlight.


Place a soft towel over the headlamp

Standing in front of the bike (front wheel between your legs), place a folded towel over headlamp for handlebars to rest on once removed.






Remove handlebar clamp bolts

With one hand holding the handlebars, remove the (4) allen head bolts on the the quill stem handlebar clamp.

Be careful when you loosen them, as the handlebars may fall - rotate downward quickly.





Rotate handlebar assembly up and over

Once the handlebar assembly is free of the quill stem, carefully rotate it up and forward and rest it gently on the towel/headlamp.

It will need to balance there for the next few steps.





Remove quill stem / handlebar clamp

With a 13mm wrench, loosen the quill stem bolt just enough to slide the stem up and out.

⚠️  Don't loosen too much or you risk loosing the stem's lower wedge-bolt down the head tube.



Remove the Top Console

There are (4) allen head cap bolts that secure the console. 

Helpful Hint: The composite fiberglass console is bowed over the top of the faux-tank unit, so its tension applies 'pressure' against the bolts holding it down. Pushing down on the fiberglass will relieve that tension, allowing bolts to easily be removed. It also helps to keep lock washers from marring the paint finish.

Remove Rear Bolts

Start with the (2) cap bolts at the rear (under the seat stem).

⚠️  Push down on the fiberglass to remove any tension and remove the bolts.





Remove Front Bolt

Gently push down on the front of the console (to remove tension) and remove the front allen head cap bolt.







Remove Center Bolt

Remove the last allen head cap bolt in the center of the console (pushing down if necessary).







Disconnect the Console Cable Assemblies

Once the bolts are removed, the console is ready to be disconnected from the e-bike.

There are a number of cable assemblies with modular connectors to disconnect.





Unplug Modular Connectors - Pull Connectors / Not Wires

Helpful Hint: Holding the console and disconnecting the modular connectors simultaneously is a challenge with only one pair of hands. Since I'm always working solo, I've found a method that works pretty good without scratching the console.
Stand on the left side of the bike, lift the console up and turn it slightly. Place the rear of the console between your legs holding it tightly. Then I gently rest the edge of the console on the faux-tank (carefully). This frees up my hands to disconnect the modular connectors. I re-install it the same way. Easy peasy.


Warning: Do not pull the connectors apart by the wires, but rather by the connectors. Each modular connector has plastic locking tab. Depress the tab and the connector will come apart easily.


  • Set the console off to the side (on a soft surface).
  • Temporarily re-install the 'balancing' handlebars. Re-insert the quill stem and snug the 13mm bolt down.
  • Re-install the handlebar assembly to the quill stem (4 allen head cap bolts) and snug down.

Reassembling the Console

When reassembling the console, ensure cable assemblies tuck inside the opening in the top of the tank and that they don't get pinched when reinstalling console bolts.

⚠️  Before reinstalling the bolts and snugging down, I recommend turning the bike electrics on and checking for proper operation. Many times I've missed one connector and had to disassemble to fix the issue.



Helpful Hint: When re-assembling the top console, it's easiest to start by finger-tightening the front and middle bolts first. Once then are started, then push down on the back of the console to start the rear bolts.
I recommend putting the allen head cap bolt on the end of my allen wrench. Then push down and install the bolt. Be careful not to cross-thread the bolt. It will go in easily if your at the correct angle. Sometimes it can be tough to tell if you're at the correct angle because of the curves of the fiberglass. Be patient. If it's not starting easily, change your angle just a little. It will go in smoothly. Don't force it or you'll have bigger problems.

Disassembling the Tank Clams

Your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been designed so that most service can be accomplished from the left side. Remove the left tank clam first.

Remove the Lower Bolts - Left Side Clam Only

There are four (4) bolts holding the left clam on the bike. (2) upper bolts and (2) lower bolts.

Remove the (2) lower bolts first (left side bolts only). Leave the bolts on the right side clam in place.





Remove the (2) Upper Bolts - Left Side Clam Only

Remove the (2) upper bolts holding the left clam on the bike.

⚠️  Be sure to hold the clam on as you take the bolts out as the clam can easily fall off and get damaged.

Remove the clam carefully and set aside.




Left Clam Removed

Most troubleshooting procedures are easily performed with only the left clam removed.

  • All of the e-cruisers modular cable connectors are accessible.

  • The relay pack, motor controller, and 12v battery pack are also accessible.

  • See the Troubleshooting section.



Remove Right Side Clam

Removing the right side clam provides access to the 50v battery charger and allows the rear motor hub electrical cable to be removed (with the rear wheel assembly). If you're not doing either of those two things, right clam removal is probably not necessary.

Remove the (2) upper bolts holding the right clam.

⚠️  Be sure to hold the clam on as you take the bolts out as the clam can easily fall off and get damaged.

Reassembling the Tank Clams

This is probably the most challenging procedure on your Fat Woody e-cruiser when you're working solo. It is possible, but it can be significantly easier with a second pair of hands.

Install Right Side Clam

You want to be careful during this step as it can be easy to pinch wires and cables at the rear (around the seat post).

  • Hang the right clam and insert the (2) upper bolts. Just hand tighten 1/2 of the way. Don't snug yet.


Helpful Hint: When hanging the right clam, start at the back under the seat post. ⚠️ Watch the cables in that area as they can prevent the clam from positioning correctly, as well as pinching wires and cables.
The second cable assembly to watch for is up front. The handlebar cable assembly enters the clam from the bottom, but it likes to get in the way by the head tube. ⚠️ Again, this cable will prevent the clam from positioning correctly if it's pinched.


Install Left Side Clam

Again, this is probably the most challenging procedure you'll do on your Fat Woody. Be patient and take note of my 'Helpful Hints'.

  • Hang the left clam, being careful to get bottom of the clam over the lower 'bracket tabs' mounted on the right clam.

  • Insert the (2) upper bolts and hand tighten 1/2 of the way. Don't snug yet.

  • Check to make sure the handlebar cable assembly is not pinched up front under the tank.

  • Check to make sure all modular connectors and wires are not pinched under the tank.

This is the tough part...

  • Install the (2) lower clam bolts.


Helpful Hint: The two clams need to be pushed together so the bottom seam come together. Pushing it together and starting the bolt solo is REALLY hard! It is a lot easier if you get some help.
If you have a second pair of hands, have them squeeze the clams together while you start the bolts.
When I'm working solo, I use a couple strips of duct tape to hold the lower portion of the clam together while I start the bolts. Again, be careful not to cross thread the bolts. Put the bolt on the tip of your allen wrench and start it carefully.
Sometimes the lower tab moves and the hole is not perfectly lined up. Insert a small screwdriver and pull the tab so it centers. Then try inserting the cap bolt.


  • Once all the bolts are started, take one more look for pinched cables. This can happen easily.
  • ⚠️  Snug all bolts. Don't torque... just snug.

Lower-Unit Disassembly

This should only be necessary to gain access to the following components:

  • 50v Battery Pack
  • Bose Speaker
  • 120v Plug Strip (50v battery charger, 12v battery charger, Bose battery charger)
  • Kickstand Attachment Bolt

Remove Left Lower-Unit Clam

⚠️  Your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been designed so that components can easily be accessed from the left side. There really should be no reason to ever remove the right side lower-unit clam.

Remove the Left Crank Arm Assembly

A specialty bicycle tool is required for this procedure. It will help ensure no damage to the paint on the lower unit.

As the creator of Fat Woody, I have decided to provide owners with any specialty tools necessary to remove body components in order to access electrical systems.

Locate the tool provided with your Fat Woody cruiser.



Remove Decorative Cap

Remove the decorative cap by prying it off with a small screwdriver.






Remove Crank Arm Nut

Using the crank puller tool 'socket-end', remove the 9/16" nut from the crankset axle. With your left hand, you'll need to hold tight on the crank arm to keep it from turning.

Once loosened, the nut is easily removed.

The crank arm will not easily come off and will require using 'the other end' of the crank puller tool (threaded end).



Thread the Crank Puller Tool into the Crank Arm

⚠️  Be sure the plunger or socket part of the tool (chrome part) is unscrewed, or you won't be able to fully thread the tool into the crank arm..

Carefully thread the crank puller into the crank arm. These are Fine threads, so be careful not to cross thread tool into the crank arm.

Fully thread the tool in the arm as the next procedure will put considerable stress on the threads. You can use the wrench for this once you're certain it is not cross-threaded.


Pull the Crank Arm Off the Crank Axle

With a wrench, turn the crank puller's center plunger clockwise until the crank arm pulls off.

Again, you may need to keep your left hand on the crank arm to keep it from turning as you apply force.





Remove the Left Crank Arm Assembly

A specialty bicycle tool is required for this procedure. It will help ensure no damage to the paint on the lower unit.

As the creator of Fat Woody, I have decided to provide owners with any specialty tools necessary to remove body components in order to access electrical systems.

Locate the tool provided with your Fat Woody cruiser.



Remove Lock Ring from Bottom Bracket

The crank set lock ring will need to be removed in order to remove the lower-unit clam.

Using a bicycle lock ring spanner wrench, loosen the lock ring.

Remove the lock ring from the bottom bracket asse mbly.




Remove Lower-Unit Clam Bolts - Left Side Only

There are a total of (6) allen head bolts holding the left clam in place.

Remove the (3) upper bolts.

Note: the shorter bolts (10mm) are only used next to the Bose speaker controls. All other bolts are longer (14mm).



Helpful Hint: At this point, I find it helpful to lay the bike on its 'right side'. On its side, gravity helps ensure that internal components sandwiched between the clams don't shift unexpectedly.
The right side crank arm/pedal 'rotate upward' in such a way that they keep the bike nicely suspended off the ground, preventing scratches on the right side clams.


Lay bike on side.

Remove the (3) lower bolts.

Carefully remove the lower-unit left clam.

⚠️  Warning: When handling the clam, be careful of the thin composite tab in the area of the Bose speaker controls. The composite is pretty strong, but be mindful of that area.




Remove Lower Bolts (3).

Bose Speaker (padding), Battery Pack & 120v Plug Strip Accessible.


Reassembling the Lower Unit Clam

As with disassembly, reassembly is much easier if the bike is laying on it's right side.

Install Left Side Clam

Setting the clam in place is pretty straight forward, but pay close attention to tab/bracket near the speaker controls. That's a good starting place for proper alignment.

⚠️  Warning: When handling the clam, be careful of the thin composite tab in the area of the Bose speaker controls. The composite is pretty strong, but be mindful of that area.

  • Insert the (2) upper bolts (by the Bose controls). These will be the shorter length bolts (10mm). You may have to push rearward slightly on the clam to get these bolts started. Be patient. Hand tighten 1/2 of the way. Don't snug yet.

  • Insert the (4) remaining bolts (14mm long bolts). Don't snug any bolts until all have been successfully threaded.

  • Ensure the most visible seam (around the Bose controls and front of battery pack) is aligned correctly and snug the upper bolts. Again, you may need to push slightly rearward on the clam as you snug.

  • Snug the remaining bolts. Remember, no torquing of it can damage the composite and paint.

Wiring & Schematic Diagrams

12v Accessory Wiring Diagram - Download PDF

Electric Drive System Schematic - Download PDF

Cycle Analyst V3.0 - Unofficial User Guide - Download PDF

This unofficial manual was created by Endless-Sphere, an electric vehicle forum where techno-nerds gather to share information with each other.

This comprehensive manual covers Cycle Analyst technical applications on a variety of electric vehicles and electric vehicle components. While some of the information in it may apply to your Fat Woody e-cruiser, much of it will not. In other words, it is not Fat Woody specific.

That said, I distilled most of the applicable information within and used it to create the Fat Woody on-line service manual and drawings. This download is just a comprehensive manual on the Cycle Analyst V3.0 electric vehicle management system.

Removing / Replacing the Motor Hub

If you have determined through troubleshooting that the motor hub needs replacement or repair, the rear wheel will need to be removed from the bike.

Elevate Rear Wheel

Safety Note: Elevate rear wheel when troubleshooting the drive system.

When servicing the drive system, the first thing you always want to do is elevate the rear wheel.

  • Slide a piece of wood under the cruiser just behind the kickstand. 
  • Lift the rear of the bike by the saddle horn and gently set it on the wood.
  • Ensure the bike is stable. Make adjustments as necessary.

Disassembly Required

Remove Top Console and Tank Clams

If you haven't done this procedure before, please visit the 'Disassembly' section of this manual and then return to this point.

Remove the Rear Wheel

✔︎  Remove the plastic caps off the rear wheel axle nuts. The drive-side cap can't be removed so just move it out of the way.

✔︎  Remove the chain master-link and remove chain from rear sprocket.

✔︎  Remove zip-ties attaching motor cable to bike frame.

✔︎  Remove brake caliper. ⚠️ Note: Remove the caliper clamp bolts (frame), not caliper fixing bolts.

✔︎  Disconnect motor cable from motor controller - unplug modular connectors.

✔︎  Loosen rear wheel axle nuts and lower wheel to ground.

⚠️  The final step is a little tricky and it helps to have a second pair of hands. You have to lift the bike high enough to get the rear wheel out from under the rear fender. The bike will be heavy and unstable. Be careful!

✔︎  Lift the rear of the bike high and roll out the rear wheel assembly.


The area where the motor cable comes out of the axle shaft has sharp edges that can easily cut into the cable assembly and small wires within it. To help protect the cable from damage, unscrew the axle nut to that area and it will keep the cable more protected. Also, coil the long cable and tie it up with zip-ties.

Motor Hub Service vs. Replacement

Complete Hub Motor

Motor Hub Replacement

If you are replacing the motor hub, the new motor hub will need to be laced into the wheel. For those unfamiliar with the term 'laced', that means the spokes will need to be removed from the rim and re-installed with the new motor.

You can also choose to leave the aluminum hub laced into the wheel and replace only the motor assembly. See Motor Assembly-Only Replacement below.


Motor Assembly

Motor Hub Service

If you are servicing the rear motor such as replacing the integral clutch or composite gears, you will not need to separate the motor from the rim (i.e. remove spokes). The motor assembly will easily separate from hub (laced into wheel).

You most likely will need to use a gear puller to pull the clutch off the axle shaft, but from there its pretty straight forward.


Aluminum Hub

Motor Assembly-Only Replacement

Personally, I don't like de-lacing and re-lacing a wheel for a few reasons. One, it costs $100-110. Two, the wheel may not be as true as it currently is. Three, the de-lacing/re-lacing process can scratch the wheel.

This process involves ordering a new rear motor hub and removing the motor assembly from it. The new motor assembly simply replaces the old assembly while re-using the aluminum hub laced into your wheel.

Motor Hub Replacement

Replacing the motor hub requires specialized training, specifically as it relates to lacing and truing wheels. For those unfamiliar with the term 'truing', its the precise adjustment of spoke tension so the rim rotates true, without side-to-side variations. This procedure should only be done by a professional bike shop with experience in this area bicycle service.

Remove/Reinstall Hub Accessories

There are a number of parts that will need to be transferred to the new motor once replaced. Remove and reinstall these items on your new motor hub.

  • Disc Brake Rotor
  • Single Speed Gear Cog
  • Freewheel Extenders (on Freewheel Hubs)
  • Cassette Spacer Kit (on Cassette Hubs)

Protect your bike's finishes!

⚠️  Protect Your Rim's Finish: Fat Woody has gone to painstaking efforts to create a flawless finish on their cruisers. Removing and reinstalling spokes (especially thicker 13g spokes) can scratch your powder coated rims. Unfortunately, many technicians don't often invest the time to protect your finish.
When taking your wheel in for motor hub replacement, we suggest using blue painter's tape to cover as much of the face of the rim as possible. That said, don't put tape on the sides of the rim. The sides must left uncovered for truing. As the owner, INSIST they take care to not scratch your finishes.
⚠️  Re-Use the 13g Spokes: Insist they re-use your thicker 13g spokes. In the interest of minimizing labor time, many shops like to cut out the old spokes and sell you new ones (typically 14g thinner spokes). Your hub and rim are designed for 13g spokes and they are custom made for your high torque motor.
⚠️  Wipe Off Thread Lock Immediately: It is a common practice for shops to use a liquid thread-lock on the spoke nipples (where the spoke touches the rim). It's usually red or blue in color and if allowed to dry on your rim will NEVER come off.


Spoke Calculations

How a wheel is spoked is critical to its proper operation. Here at Fat Woody, we have tested numerous methods and determined the best possible spoke arrangement. It is important that the technician working on your wheel has this information.

Fat Woody has used both freewheel-type motor hubs, and cassette-type motor hubs. Each one is slightly different and has a different spoke calculation. Your local shop will easily know which type you have by looking at it.

Freewheel Motor Hub - Spoke & Lacing Requirements

⚠️  Important Note: Because the Freewheel Motor Hub is offset and will require dishing, it is necessary to lace the wheel (spoke elbows) as shown.

Cassette Motor Hub - Spoke & Lacing Requirements

Spoke Calc Cassette.jpg