Disassembling your Fat Woody

With the exception of removing the front wheel, most all service procedures (including removal of the rear wheel) will require disassembly of the Fat Woody composite body. Most all service on the Fat Woody e-cruiser can be accomplished by disassembling the upper faux-tank unit. Rarely will it be necessary to disassemble the lower unit which houses the battery pack and Bose speaker system. For ease of service, your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been designed to facilitate most all maintenance from the left side of the bike.

 

Warning: Fat Woody paint and finishes can be easily scratched and damaged. This is a custom bike, so there are no freshly painted replacement parts on the shelf. Repairs to the finishes can be expensive. Handle all finished parts extremely carefully (painted, leather or powder coated).

 

Helpful Hints: Here's the reality... Removing the fiberglass is easy. Reinstalling it can be painful, and at times frustrating (as my neighbors down the street can confirm). But it doesn't have to be.
Having disassembled and reassembled Fat Woody's fiberglass body components a few hundred times, I have found some helpful tricks that will make it easier. Please read these. They are worth the time and will definitely help to keep obscenities to a minimum.
⚠️  Also.... NEVER torque down the fiberglass attachment bolts. Press down on the fiberglass and snug them. Torquing them will stress and crack the fiberglass components. It's not necessary to torque if you snug the bolt with the lock washer.

Top Console / Faux-Tank Disassembly

The upper tank is made up of three (3) composite components: the top console and two tank clams (left/right). The left/right tank clams can't come apart until the top console is removed.

Top Console Removal

Due to the unique design of the Fat Woody, the top console can't be removed without first removing the seat and handlebar quill stem.

Remove the Seat

With a 14mm socket/ratchet, loosen the left/right nuts (equally) under the seat.

⚠️  Note: Click on the images to expand photos.

 

 

 


Remove the Handlebar Quill Stem

 

Helpful Hint: The handlebar unit is a little more tricky. Because the handlebar brake/electrical cables do not provide enough slack to move the entire assembly (stem and bar) up 5-6 inches, it will be necessary to separate the handlebar from the stem and rotate the handlebars forward (over the top), resting them on top of the headlight. Be sure to place a towel on top of the headlight.

 

Place a soft towel over the headlamp

Standing in front of the bike (front wheel between your legs), place a folded towel over headlamp for handlebars to rest on once removed.

 

 

 

 

 

Remove handlebar clamp bolts

With one hand holding the handlebars, remove the (4) allen head bolts on the the quill stem handlebar clamp.

Be careful when you loosen them, as the handlebars may fall - rotate downward quickly.

 

 

 

 

Rotate handlebar assembly up and over

Once the handlebar assembly is free of the quill stem, carefully rotate it up and forward and rest it gently on the towel/headlamp.

It will need to balance there for the next few steps.

 

 

 

 

Remove quill stem / handlebar clamp

With a 13mm wrench, loosen the quill stem bolt just enough to slide the stem up and out.

⚠️  Don't loosen too much or you risk loosing the stem's lower wedge-bolt down the head tube.

 

 


Remove the Top Console

There are (4) allen head cap bolts that secure the console. 

Helpful Hint: The composite fiberglass console is bowed over the top of the faux-tank unit, so its tension applies 'pressure' against the bolts holding it down. Pushing down on the fiberglass will relieve that tension, allowing bolts to easily be removed. It also helps to keep lock washers from marring the paint finish.

Remove Rear Bolts

Start with the (2) cap bolts at the rear (under the seat stem).

⚠️  Push down on the fiberglass to remove any tension and remove the bolts.

 

 

 

 

Remove Front Bolt

Gently push down on the front of the console (to remove tension) and remove the front allen head cap bolt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove Center Bolt

Remove the last allen head cap bolt in the center of the console (pushing down if necessary).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Disconnect the Console Cable Assemblies

Once the bolts are removed, the console is ready to be disconnected from the e-bike.

There are a number of cable assemblies with modular connectors to disconnect.

 

 

 

 

Unplug Modular Connectors - Pull Connectors / Not Wires

Helpful Hint: Holding the console and disconnecting the modular connectors simultaneously is a challenge with only one pair of hands. Since I'm always working solo, I've found a method that works pretty good without scratching the console.
Stand on the left side of the bike, lift the console up and turn it slightly. Place the rear of the console between your legs holding it tightly. Then I gently rest the edge of the console on the faux-tank (carefully). This frees up my hands to disconnect the modular connectors. I re-install it the same way. Easy peasy.

 

Warning: Do not pull the connectors apart by the wires, but rather by the connectors. Each modular connector has plastic locking tab. Depress the tab and the connector will come apart easily.

 

  • Set the console off to the side (on a soft surface).
  • Temporarily re-install the 'balancing' handlebars. Re-insert the quill stem and snug the 13mm bolt down.
  • Re-install the handlebar assembly to the quill stem (4 allen head cap bolts) and snug down.

Reassembling the Console

When reassembling the console, ensure cable assemblies tuck inside the opening in the top of the tank and that they don't get pinched when reinstalling console bolts.

⚠️  Before reinstalling the bolts and snugging down, I recommend turning the bike electrics on and checking for proper operation. Many times I've missed one connector and had to disassemble to fix the issue.

 

 

Helpful Hint: When re-assembling the top console, it's easiest to start by finger-tightening the front and middle bolts first. Once then are started, then push down on the back of the console to start the rear bolts.
I recommend putting the allen head cap bolt on the end of my allen wrench. Then push down and install the bolt. Be careful not to cross-thread the bolt. It will go in easily if your at the correct angle. Sometimes it can be tough to tell if you're at the correct angle because of the curves of the fiberglass. Be patient. If it's not starting easily, change your angle just a little. It will go in smoothly. Don't force it or you'll have bigger problems.

Disassembling the Tank Clams

Your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been designed so that most service can be accomplished from the left side. Remove the left tank clam first.

Remove the Lower Bolts - Left Side Clam Only

There are four (4) bolts holding the left clam on the bike. (2) upper bolts and (2) lower bolts.

Remove the (2) lower bolts first (left side bolts only). Leave the bolts on the right side clam in place.

 

 

 

 

Remove the (2) Upper Bolts - Left Side Clam Only

Remove the (2) upper bolts holding the left clam on the bike.

⚠️  Be sure to hold the clam on as you take the bolts out as the clam can easily fall off and get damaged.

Remove the clam carefully and set aside.

 

 

 

Left Clam Removed

Most troubleshooting procedures are easily performed with only the left clam removed.

  • All of the e-cruisers modular cable connectors are accessible.

  • The relay pack, motor controller, and 12v battery pack are also accessible.

  • See the Troubleshooting section.

 

 

Remove Right Side Clam

Removing the right side clam provides access to the 50v battery charger and allows the rear motor hub electrical cable to be removed (with the rear wheel assembly). If you're not doing either of those two things, right clam removal is probably not necessary.

Remove the (2) upper bolts holding the right clam.

⚠️  Be sure to hold the clam on as you take the bolts out as the clam can easily fall off and get damaged.


Reassembling the Tank Clams

This is probably the most challenging procedure on your Fat Woody e-cruiser when you're working solo. It is possible, but it can be significantly easier with a second pair of hands.

Install Right Side Clam

You want to be careful during this step as it can be easy to pinch wires and cables at the rear (around the seat post).

  • Hang the right clam and insert the (2) upper bolts. Just hand tighten 1/2 of the way. Don't snug yet.

 

Helpful Hint: When hanging the right clam, start at the back under the seat post. ⚠️ Watch the cables in that area as they can prevent the clam from positioning correctly, as well as pinching wires and cables.
The second cable assembly to watch for is up front. The handlebar cable assembly enters the clam from the bottom, but it likes to get in the way by the head tube. ⚠️ Again, this cable will prevent the clam from positioning correctly if it's pinched.

 

Install Left Side Clam

Again, this is probably the most challenging procedure you'll do on your Fat Woody. Be patient and take note of my 'Helpful Hints'.

  • Hang the left clam, being careful to get bottom of the clam over the lower 'bracket tabs' mounted on the right clam.

  • Insert the (2) upper bolts and hand tighten 1/2 of the way. Don't snug yet.

  • Check to make sure the handlebar cable assembly is not pinched up front under the tank.

  • Check to make sure all modular connectors and wires are not pinched under the tank.

This is the tough part...

  • Install the (2) lower clam bolts.

 

Helpful Hint: The two clams need to be pushed together so the bottom seam come together. Pushing it together and starting the bolt solo is REALLY hard! It is a lot easier if you get some help.
If you have a second pair of hands, have them squeeze the clams together while you start the bolts.
When I'm working solo, I use a couple strips of duct tape to hold the lower portion of the clam together while I start the bolts. Again, be careful not to cross thread the bolts. Put the bolt on the tip of your allen wrench and start it carefully.
Sometimes the lower tab moves and the hole is not perfectly lined up. Insert a small screwdriver and pull the tab so it centers. Then try inserting the cap bolt.

 

  • Once all the bolts are started, take one more look for pinched cables. This can happen easily.
  • ⚠️  Snug all bolts. Don't torque... just snug.

Lower-Unit Disassembly

This should only be necessary to gain access to the following components:

  • 50v Battery Pack
  • Bose Speaker
  • 120v Plug Strip (50v battery charger, 12v battery charger, Bose battery charger)
  • Kickstand Attachment Bolt

Remove Left Lower-Unit Clam

⚠️  Your Fat Woody e-cruiser has been designed so that components can easily be accessed from the left side. There really should be no reason to ever remove the right side lower-unit clam.

Remove the Left Crank Arm Assembly

A specialty bicycle tool is required for this procedure. It will help ensure no damage to the paint on the lower unit.

As the creator of Fat Woody, I have decided to provide owners with any specialty tools necessary to remove body components in order to access electrical systems.

Locate the tool provided with your Fat Woody cruiser.

 

 

Remove Decorative Cap

Remove the decorative cap by prying it off with a small screwdriver.

 

 

 

 

 

Remove Crank Arm Nut

Using the crank puller tool 'socket-end', remove the 9/16" nut from the crankset axle. With your left hand, you'll need to hold tight on the crank arm to keep it from turning.

Once loosened, the nut is easily removed.

The crank arm will not easily come off and will require using 'the other end' of the crank puller tool (threaded end).

 

 

Thread the Crank Puller Tool into the Crank Arm

⚠️  Be sure the plunger or socket part of the tool (chrome part) is unscrewed, or you won't be able to fully thread the tool into the crank arm..

Carefully thread the crank puller into the crank arm. These are Fine threads, so be careful not to cross thread tool into the crank arm.

Fully thread the tool in the arm as the next procedure will put considerable stress on the threads. You can use the wrench for this once you're certain it is not cross-threaded.

 

Pull the Crank Arm Off the Crank Axle

With a wrench, turn the crank puller's center plunger clockwise until the crank arm pulls off.

Again, you may need to keep your left hand on the crank arm to keep it from turning as you apply force.

 

 

 

 

Remove the Left Crank Arm Assembly

A specialty bicycle tool is required for this procedure. It will help ensure no damage to the paint on the lower unit.

As the creator of Fat Woody, I have decided to provide owners with any specialty tools necessary to remove body components in order to access electrical systems.

Locate the tool provided with your Fat Woody cruiser.

 

 

Remove Lock Ring from Bottom Bracket

The crank set lock ring will need to be removed in order to remove the lower-unit clam.

Using a bicycle lock ring spanner wrench, loosen the lock ring.

Remove the lock ring from the bottom bracket asse mbly.

 

 

 

Remove Lower-Unit Clam Bolts - Left Side Only

There are a total of (6) allen head bolts holding the left clam in place.

Remove the (3) upper bolts.

Note: the shorter bolts (10mm) are only used next to the Bose speaker controls. All other bolts are longer (14mm).

 

 

Helpful Hint: At this point, I find it helpful to lay the bike on its 'right side'. On its side, gravity helps ensure that internal components sandwiched between the clams don't shift unexpectedly.
The right side crank arm/pedal 'rotate upward' in such a way that they keep the bike nicely suspended off the ground, preventing scratches on the right side clams.

 

Lay bike on side.

Remove the (3) lower bolts.

Carefully remove the lower-unit left clam.

⚠️  Warning: When handling the clam, be careful of the thin composite tab in the area of the Bose speaker controls. The composite is pretty strong, but be mindful of that area.

 

 

 

Remove Lower Bolts (3).

Bose Speaker (padding), Battery Pack & 120v Plug Strip Accessible.

 

Reassembling the Lower Unit Clam

As with disassembly, reassembly is much easier if the bike is laying on it's right side.

Install Left Side Clam

Setting the clam in place is pretty straight forward, but pay close attention to tab/bracket near the speaker controls. That's a good starting place for proper alignment.

⚠️  Warning: When handling the clam, be careful of the thin composite tab in the area of the Bose speaker controls. The composite is pretty strong, but be mindful of that area.

  • Insert the (2) upper bolts (by the Bose controls). These will be the shorter length bolts (10mm). You may have to push rearward slightly on the clam to get these bolts started. Be patient. Hand tighten 1/2 of the way. Don't snug yet.

  • Insert the (4) remaining bolts (14mm long bolts). Don't snug any bolts until all have been successfully threaded.

  • Ensure the most visible seam (around the Bose controls and front of battery pack) is aligned correctly and snug the upper bolts. Again, you may need to push slightly rearward on the clam as you snug.

  • Snug the remaining bolts. Remember, no torquing of it can damage the composite and paint.